Dog Food

We feed Canidae dog food (www.canidae.com). Canidae has consistently been in the top ten foods rated for organic dog food. It is such a good quality food, not including any by-products and the most inexpenisve top quality foods found. You may have to travel far and buy in big quantities to get a good price, but it is worth it. It is also one of the last foods being sold in 40 pound bags, a definite plus instead of 33.5 pounds. When bought in quantity the price is less than a dollar a pound which is uncommon for organic quality foods. You will also feed less than normal because the dogs get full on this food quickly. I only have a few dogs that have an empty stomach on this food. We do not guarantee any accuracy of the term "organic" so please confirm this with the site itself.

Shampoo/Conditioner

We only use Vellus. There is none that compares to this product and trust us, we've tried them ALL! We highly recommend this product. You must do everything as the directions say. The trick is to use the clarifying shampoo whenever excessive matting happens.

Grooming Tools:

It is a must to have a big speed dryer, and though they are expensive, they last for years. We use either an Oster or Edemco dryer.

Don't use a Double K or Metro as these are too forceful for the hair and will cause damage. Search Cherrybrook (or any other dog supplier) under grooming. Cost is around $300. If finances are tight we suggest buying a high quality hand held dryer with different speeds and varying temperatures (this is what we use on the road to dog shows as it takes up little room). Then buy a third hand from Cherrybrook for around $25. This attaches your dryer to an appendage that connects to your table so you don't have to hold the dryer.

Brushes/Slicker brushes:

Never use a brush with balls on the end. Instead, try to use metal bristles. I recommend only Chris Christensen. For real beginners, #1 All Systems have a very soft touch and won't tear out the coat. When you are brushing remember to hold your hand only on the handle and not on the part where the bristles are as this will cause stress to the hair with the added pressure. Don't flip your wrist as this also tears out coat. Brush very straight from top of coat to the end of the hair follicle. Always layer brush starting with the dog on the side and brush from bottom to top in layers. We recommend a parting comb that you can buy at Sally's Beauty Supply for little money ($1-$4). To keep the hair out of the eye use dental rubber bands (I suggest this site for inexpensive bands-mention Troy Dargin so they will love me even more!)

I use a slicker brush to brush the feet and bad mats but you must be careful not to be too rough with it. The only slicker I would use must be a gentle one otherwise ALL the hair will be ripped out. Please don't use anything other than a DoggyMan.

Also, the comb is only to check for mats, not to comb through the hair to actually get the mats out. One other hint, when brushing a dog never dry brush, always use some sort of mist to spray the dogs coat (this could be conditioner diluted with water in a spray bottle)

Below is a Grooming Test with the answers at the bottom. Have fun to see the level of the groomer that you are now.

Grooming the Dog?

----On The Table----

1. Should a groomer begin teaching their dog on the table as a 6 week old puppy? YES/NO

2. While grooming a dog's side, should the dog be:

1. lying on its stomach
2. lying on its side rolled over
3. other_________

3. When brushing, a groomer should twist their wrist with the brush? YES/NO

4. When a mat resorts, should the groomer:

1. pull it apart gently with their fingers and wet it
2. cut it out if too bad
3. use the slicker
4. just start brushing it without spraying

5. The hair on top of the head should be tied up, but the mustache should not. TRUE/FALSE. If FALSE, what should be done?

6. Always start brushing on the top coat and then the under coat. Never brush the undercoat and then the top coat. TRUE/FALSE. If this is false, what should be done?

7.Shave:

1. eyelashes
2. whiskers
3. anus
4. hair between paws
5. ear hair

8. NEVER:

1. clean the ears with a hemostat
2. clean anal glands by squeezing them
3. brush a dry dog
4. comb before brushing
5. clean teeth with a toothbrush
6. leave a dog on a table unattended

9. A groomer may wrap any part of the dog YES/NO. If no, explain what parts can't

10. Use a (brush):

1. pin
2. scalp master
3. other_________

11. Part:

1. straight down by tailbone (show) more right side over on show side (home)
2. other____________
3. always straight
4. explain your answer_____

12. Use a soft slicker for bad mats. Explain_____________________

13. Clip nails:

14. Use __________in eyes always. Use______________in ears and remove hair with ____________.

Teeth: USE:

1. same as human
2. same as cattle
3. use happy breath
4. brush teeth

15. Anal glands:

16.

1. never blow dry a dog
2. always blow dry a dog halfway dry
3. always blow dry a dog all the way dry

• Don't let the dryer twist the hair of the dog. Prevent this by:
• Best Blow Dryer:_________

17. Blow dry the dog as if the groomer is:

18. Taking out rubber bands:

• Use:___________
• Never get _____ in hair. Explain______________

ANSWERS:

1. yes
2. number 2
3. yes
4. number 1
5. false, mustache tied with eye wick on back piece
6. false, start on the undercoat, misting layer by layer.
7. number 3 AND 4
8. number 3 and 4 and 6
9. no, bone of tail and ears
10. number 1
11. number 1
12. at home it can prevent split ends on the show side in case of an accident.
13. CLIP NAILS: up to pink...leave a little white so bleeding won't occur.
14. eyewash, earwash, hemostats. TEETH: number 1 and 3 and 4
15. Anal glands: squeeze together (accumulated feces) white stuff. This will stink, so do this in the bath tub.
16. number 3 BY: combing on undryed part of the hair. Best dryer is Edemco/Oster around $300.
17. careful
18. USE: small scissors. Never get HAIR in scissors because you've worked 5 days to grow that one piece of hair you broke in one second!!!!

Congrats! Now you are a master groomer. No, not by a long shot. Some items in the test were never mentioned previously but were asked so you would find out the question through the test. This certainly is just a forefront of a taste of grooming lessons. The serious student should seek a mentor close to them and read the books I have suggested. Find a kennel club close to you is the place of great resources. You may find these clubs by visiting AKC's website!

I do hope you feel encouraged! There is always room to learn more! Have fun!

Information
We have compiled a compedium of information for the novice puppy owner or dog show owner. Below you will find wonderful information anywhere from grooming to dog food.

Hernias

There is much controversy about umbilical hernias. Most Shih Tzus have umbilical hernias and are certainly not a reason NOT to buy a dog or NOT to breed with a dog. Consider the following article that was taken from the Shih Tzu Reporter who reprinted it from the Bernese Mountain dogs.

This article is presented in support of the fact that ours is not the only breed that finds umbilical hernias common. Unfortunately, too many veterinarians would like us to believe Shih Tzu are the exception. If you substitute "Shih Tzu" for "Berners", the info would be the same. The ASTC Education committee has been working on a flyer to give to vets describing this and other conditions (e.g. late teething, undershot bites) normal in Shih Tzu but not "understood" as such by most veterinarians.

UNDERSTANDING UMBILICAL HERNIAS

by Julia M. Crawford

Reprinted with the permission of the author from the Bernese Mountain Dog column in the July 2000 AKC Gazette.

If a Bernese Mountain Dog puppy has an umbilical hernia, it will be apparent by 6 weeks of age as a bubblelike protrusion at the navel. This occurs when the umbilical rings fail to close fully after birth. Umbilical hernias can be caused by heredity, cutting the umbilical cord too short, or excessive stress on the umbilical cord during delivery. The frequency of occurrence of this type of hernia in Berners should indicate that heredity is a factor. The mode of inheritance is unknown. The concern that this condition poses for the future of the breed is small in comparison with far more weighty matters such as structural soundess, excellence in breed type and longevity.

In more than 30 years of experience with Bernese Mountain Dogs, only once did our veterinarian feel surgical correction of an umbilical hernia was necessary. The size of the protrusions we have seen range from minuscule to the size of a nickel at 6 weeks, and if makes note of the presence of a hernia, the pup is monitored. Not once have any of the puppies had a problem. In the highly unlikely event that an umbilical hernia becomes painful to the touch, swollen or red, the dog should be examined by a beterinarian within 24 hours. Experienced Berner breeders have found that bitches with umbilical hernias-some quite large-are unaffected by repeated pregnancies, even with large litters.

Some veterinarians are unaware that umbilical hernias can be a common occurence in Bernese. They alarm new owners with recommendations for surgical correction and a call to spay or neuter the pup regardless of its quality.

A Bernese Mountain Dog's status as a candidate for furture breeding should not be determined by the presence of an umbilical hernia. While concerns about the condition may be justifiable with some other breeds, not so with Bernese (or Shih Tzu). The call for surgical repair is usually unnecessary, other than for cosmetic reasons.

One veterinarian actually told the new owners of a 9 week old potential show puppy that the pup's small umbilical hernia (identified by the breeder and her attending veterinarian as being no problem) would have to be repaired for the health of the dog even if it would disqualify the dog from showing because of the surgical alteration of appearance. In fact, the AKC's disqualification applying to all breeds regarding hernia surgery mentions only corrections of inguinal (in or near the groin), scrotal or perineal (near the anus) hernias, not umbilical hernias. Fortunately, inguinal, scrotal and perineal hernias are very rare in Bernese.

The AKC Shih Tzu Standard (Toy Group) A more detailed standard with pictures can be seen here (this will take you to the ASTC site)


General Appearance
The Shih Tzu is a sturdy, lively, alert toy dog with long flowing double coat. Befitting his noble Chinese ancestry as a highly valued, prized companion and palace pet, the Shih Tzu is proud of bearing, has a distinctively arrogant carriage with head well up and tail curved over the back. Although there has always been considerable size variation, the Shih Tzu must be compact, solid, carrying good weight and substance.

Even though a toy dog, the Shih Tzu must be subject to the same requirements of soundness and structure prescribed for all breeds, and any deviation from the ideal described in the standard should be penalized to the extent of the deviation. Structural faults common to all breeds are as undesirable in the Shih Tzu as in any other breed, regardless of whether or not such faults are specifically mentioned in the standard.

Size, Proportion, Substance
Size - Ideally, height at withers is 9 to 10½ inches; but, not less than 8 inches nor more than 11 inches. Ideally, weight of mature dogs, 9 to 16 pounds. Proportion - Length between withers and root of tail is slightly longer than height at withers. The Shih Tzu must never be so high stationed as to appear leggy, nor so low stationed as to appear dumpy or squatty. Substance - Regardless of size, the Shih Tzu is always compact, solid and carries good weight and substance.

Head
Head - Round, broad, wide between eyes, its size in balance with the overall size of dog being neither too large nor too small. Fault: Narrow head, close-set eyes. Expression - Warm, sweet, wide-eyed, friendly and trusting. An overall well-balanced and pleasant expression supersedes the importance of individual parts. Care should be taken to look and examine well beyond the hair to determine if what is seen is the actual head and expression rather than an image created by grooming technique . Eyes - Large, round, not prominent, placed well apart, looking straight ahead. Very dark . Lighter on liver pigmented dogs and blue pigmented dogs. Fault: Small, close-set or light eyes; excessive eye white. Ears - Large, set slightly below crown of skull; heavily coated. Skull - Domed. Stop - There is a definite stop . Muzzle - Square, short, unwrinkled, with good cushioning, set no lower than bottom eye rim; never downturned. Ideally, no longer than 1 inch from tip of nose to stop, although length may vary slightly in relation to overall size of dog. Front of muzzle should be flat; lower lip and chin not protruding and definitely never receding. Fault: Snipiness, lack of definite stop. Nose - Nostrils are broad, wide, and open. Pigmentation - Nose, lips, eye rims are black on all colors, except liver on liver pigmented dogs and blue on blue pigmented dogs. Fault: Pink on nose, lips, or eye rims. Bite - Undershot. Jaw is broad and wide. A missing tooth or slightly misaligned teeth should not be too severely penalized. Teeth and tongue should not show when mouth is closed. Fault: Overshot bite.

Neck, Topline, Body
Of utmost importance is an overall well-balanced dog with no exaggerated features. Neck - Well set-on flowing smoothly into shoulders; of sufficient length to permit natural high head carriage and in balance with height and length of dog. Topline - Level. Body -Short-coupled and sturdy with no waist or tuck-up. The Shih Tzu is slightly longer than tall. Fault: Legginess. Chest -Broad and deep with good spring-of-rib, however, not barrel-chested. Depth of ribcage should extend to just below elbow. Distance from elbow to withers is a little greater than from elbow to ground. Croup - Flat. Tail - Set on high, heavily plumed, carried in curve well over back. Too loose, too tight, too flat, or too low set a tail is undesirable and should be penalized to extent of deviation.

Forequarters
Shoulders - Well-angulated, well laid-back, well laid-in, fitting smoothly into body. Legs - Straight, well-boned, muscular, set well-apart and under chest, with elbows set close to body. Pasterns - Strong, perpendicular. Dewclaws - May be removed. Feet - Firm, well-padded, point straight ahead.

Hindquarters
Angulation of hindquarters should be in balance with forequarters . Legs - Well-boned, muscular, and straight when viewed from rear with well-bent stifles, not close set but in line with forequarters. Hocks - Well let down, perpendicular. Fault: Hyperextension of hocks. Dewclaws - May be removed. Feet - Firm, well-padded, point straight ahead.

Coat
Coat - Luxurious, double-coated, dense, long, and flowing. Slight wave permissible. Hair on top of head is tied up. Fault: Sparse coat, single coat, curly coat. Trimming - Feet, bottom of coat, and anus may be done for neatness and to facilitate movement. Fault: Excessive trimming.

Color and Markings
All are permissible and to be considered equally.

Gait
The Shih Tzu moves straight and must be shown at its own natural speed, neither raced nor strung-up , to evaluate its smooth, flowing, effortless movement with good front reach and equally strong rear drive, level topline, naturally high head carriage, and tail carried in gentle curve over back.

Temperament
As the sole purpose of the Shih Tzu is that of a companion and house pet, it is essential that its temperament be outgoing, happy, affectionate, friendly and trusting towards all.

Approved May 9, 1989
Effective June 29, 1989

History of the Breed (click on this to go to the ASTC site for an indepth history).

The Shih Tzu originated in China and is a Tibetan Dog. Shih Tzu means "Lion Dog". During early parts of the world it was very prestigious to have lots of dogs (well over 30) running at the Emperor's heels. This is seen with other breeds. Upper class royalty would be the "breeders". In today's society they look down on "breeders". Society also says if you have more than 3 dogs you are a puppy mill. This is not the way it used to be. In fact, it was just the opposite.

Suggested readings for the aspiring Shih Tzu lover (below is not an exhaustive list, please visit the ASTC website to view more listings of books)

The Shih Tzu Reporter and the New Shih Tzu Puppy Owner's Manual

American Shih Tzu Club Bulletin

The Joy of Owning a Shih Tzu by Anne Seranne, publisher: Howell Book House

The Shih Tzu Heritage by Jon Ferrante, publisher: Denlinger

The Joy of Owning a Shih Tzu by JoAnn White, publisher: TFH

The Nicholas Guide to Dog Judging by Anna Katherine Nicholas, publisher: Howell Book House

The Joy of Breeding your Own Show Dog by Ann Seranne, publisher: Howell Book House

The Kalstone Guide to Grooming All Toy Dogs by Shirlee A. Kalstone, publisher: Howell Book House

Grooming and Showing Toy Dogs by Peggy Hogg and Dr. Robert Berndt, publisher: Denlinger

Following is a list of tips I've learned from seminars in the past. I thought they might benefit someone if they were put in writing. I am not a veterinarian or doctor of medicine so seek advice of one of these before using. I have never had to try this so I can't speak for the effectiveness.

Epilepsy Tips:

Medications that can help an epileptic animal (don't start on it unless you can be faithful and never miss a treatment. It is better not to give at all than to miss a treatment):

Phenobarbital, Potassium bromide, primidone, Mylepsin, Mysoline, or Neurosyn.

Parvo Information:

(I've never had this so again, this is not tested by me just info that I thought would be good written down.)

Cefadroxil and Keflex (in case of Camphy), Indo serum will boost the immune system. Bananine (1-2 doses but no more than 2), Plasma (white blood cell). If white blood count is below 1,000 use Neupogen and always use modified live vaccines. For cleaning your house area use bleach at 1:30 dilution. Use Tribris San or Albon at 2 weeks of age. Vaccine for Parvo at 5 weeks of age, and then every 2 weeks while switching brands.